NW Native Art • The Southern Shelf • Reading 5 of 8
A textile economy so serious it bred its own animal. The two-bar loom, the woolly dog, blankets that were currency and protection, and the grandmothers’ art that came back.
Every art tradition has one fact that, once you know it, reorganizes everything else. Here is the South’s. Coast Salish weaving mattered so much, for so long, that it maintained its own breed of dog.
Start with the equipment. The Salish loom is a two-bar loom, two horizontal rollers in an upright frame, the warp wound continuously around both, the weaving done entirely by hand (Gustafson, 1980; Tepper, George & Joseph, 2017). Beside it sits the spindle, a shaft passed through the carved wooden disc you met in Week 1, the whorl, spinning fiber into yarn. The whorl’s carved faces, circles, crescents, and trigons in low relief, revolved before the spinner as she worked. The finest surviving Salish carving lives on women’s spinning equipment, which tells you where this society kept its weight.
The fibers were an ecology in themselves. Mountain goat wool was hunted and traded downriver from the high country. Stinging nettle and Indian hemp were spun into cordage, cattail and cedar bark went into mats and capes, and waterfowl down and plant fluff were blended in (Tepper et al., 2017; Stewart, 1984). And dog.
For thousands of years, Coast Salish households kept a small, long-haired dog bred specifically for its fleece. Woolly dogs were kept apart from the village hunting dogs so the coat would stay true, penned in some communities and kept on islands in others. Snuneymuxw oral history remembers the island by name, Squeakamay, where the dogs lived and the women paddled out to feed them (Smithsonian Institution, 2025). Keeping them was itself a mark of standing. In the Stó:lō weaver Rena Bolton’s family history, the women who had dogs were high-born women, and her great-grandmother controlled who could breed them (Smithsonian Institution, 2025). The dogs ate what their keepers ate, elk stew in some villages and salmon in others, and their hair was plucked in season or cut with a sharpened clam or mussel shell (Smithsonian Institution, 2025).
We can say all this with unusual confidence because of one animal and one remarkable paper. A dog named Mutton died in 1859, and his pelt was sent to the young Smithsonian Institution, where it sat for a century and a half as the only known woolly dog fleece in existence. In 2023 the journal Science published a study of Mutton’s genome, conducted with a Coast Salish advisory group whose members signed the paper as co-authors, among them the Musqueam weaver Debra Sparrow and the Skokomish/Twana elder Michael Pavel (Lin et al., 2023). The findings were unambiguous. Mutton’s closest relative among 217 comparison dogs was a 4,500-year-old dog, his ancestry was about 85 percent precolonial even in 1859, and his genome carried strong signals of deliberate selection for wool traits (Lin et al., 2023; Smithsonian Institution, 2025). Elder knowledge and genomics said the same thing in two languages. This was a deliberate, ancient, carefully protected breeding tradition.
Then it ended. The old textbook explanation, that cheap trade blankets simply made the dogs obsolete, does not survive contact with the record. The dogs disappeared under the full weight of colonial disruption. Epidemics broke the chain of teaching. The same laws that banned the potlatch reached the looms and the namings the blankets existed for, and in Rena Bolton’s telling, families were pressured to give up the dogs precisely because keeping them showed authority and high breeding (Smithsonian Institution, 2025). Grand Chief Steven Point of the Stó:lō puts it without decoration, that the woolly dog was simply a victim of colonialism (Smithsonian Institution, 2025). By the early twentieth century the woolly dog was gone. Sit with what that extinction is. Not a footnote of natural history, but the severing of an art supply chain five thousand years old.
Why breed a dog for wool at all? Because the blanket was one of the most consequential objects on the Salish Sea. A woven robe of goat and dog wool on the shoulders was wealth made visible, and it moved the way serious wealth moves, given away at naming ceremonies and potlatches, distributed to witnesses, exchanged, counted (Tepper et al., 2017; Suttles, 1987). When the Hudson’s Bay Company arrived, its trade blanket slotted into an existing blanket economy so precisely that prices on this coast came to be quoted in blankets.
But the ledger is only half the story. The Squamish weavers Chepximiya Siyam, Chief Janice George, and Skwetsimeltxw Willard Joseph, writing with the curator Leslie Tepper, describe the robe as protection, a garment that carries the wearer through the exposed passages of a life, birth, naming, marriage, grief (Tepper et al., 2017). A blanket was something between armor and blessing, woven by hands that knew the wearer. This course will not go further into ceremonial use than the weavers’ own published words go. Week 7 explains that restraint. [CO-AUTHOR: whether even this much framing is right.]
Here is the part of this week to hold hardest. By the middle of the twentieth century, loom weaving had gone quiet in most Salish communities. Debra Sparrow’s grandfather, named in the longhouse around 1900 with the woven robes around him and the white blankets carpeting the floor, said that was the last time he ever saw weaving at Musqueam (Smithsonian Institution, 2025). For most of a century the techniques survived in museum storage, in a handful of old blankets, and in Paula Gustafson’s documentation (Gustafson, 1980).
Then the grandmothers’ art came back through the granddaughters. In the mid-1980s, Musqueam women including Debra Sparrow and her sister Robyn taught themselves to weave again, working backward from family blankets and museum pieces, thread by thread (Museum of Anthropology at UBC, 2023). Their blankets now hang at Vancouver’s airport and in the national collections. At Squamish, Janice George and Buddy Joseph learned in 2003 from the Skokomish teacher Susan Pavel and subiyay Bruce Miller, then founded a teaching program that has since put the loom back in front of more than 2,500 students (Montecristo Magazine, 2017). Before 2003, blankets were rare at Squamish ceremonies. They are not rare now. When Debra Sparrow signed the woolly dog paper as a co-author in 2023, the circle closed. The weaver whose generation restored the loom stood as a scientific authority on the fiber her great-great-grandmothers bred dogs to grow.
One clarification, because the market will happily confuse you. The Cowichan sweater, the thick knitted garment with bold motifs that outsiders often treat as the Salish textile, is a different tradition, post-contact, born when Coast Salish wool workers met European knitting in the nineteenth century, worked in the round in lanolin-rich handspun (Olsen, 2010). It is a genuine Coast Salish art with its own lineages and its own economy, and it has fought its own appropriation battles. When the Hudson’s Bay Company sold Cowichan-styled sweaters for the 2010 Vancouver Olympics, Cowichan Tribes pushed back publicly and won concessions (Olsen, 2010). Loom-woven robe and knitted sweater. Keep them distinct, honor both, and notice that the appropriation playbook, and the resistance to it, looks the same in wool as it does in every other medium this course touches.
Here is the through-line. Coast Salish weaving is what art looks like when a society commits to it at the level of infrastructure. A loom, a dedicated animal, a trade network for fiber, and a legal-economic system denominated in the product. Colonialism cut the supply chain and silenced the loom for two generations. The revival, led by named, living women, is not nostalgia. It is infrastructure being rebuilt.
Looking ahead: Next week the fiber gets tighter still. Baskets that boiled water, a decorative technique nearly nobody else on earth used, and 2,000-year-old weaving matched stitch for stitch to living hands.
For key terms and reflection questions, see this week’s Weekly Guide.
Gustafson, P. (1980). Salish weaving. Douglas & McIntyre.
Lin, A. T., Hammond-Kaarremaa, L., et al. (2023). The history of Coast Salish “woolly dogs” revealed by ancient genomics and Indigenous Knowledge. Science, 382(6676), 1303–1308. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.adi6549
Montecristo Magazine. (2017). Salish weavers Janice George and Buddy Joseph. https://montecristomagazine.com/magazine/winter-2017/salish-weavers-janice-george-buddy-joseph
Museum of Anthropology at UBC. (2023, March). On the artful path: Susan Point’s spindle whorls. https://moa.ubc.ca/2023/03/on-the-artful-path-susan-points-spindle-whorls/
Olsen, S. (2010). Working with wool: A Coast Salish legacy and the Cowichan sweater. Sono Nis Press. [AMAZON LINK]
Smithsonian Institution. (2025). The lost woolly dog (Sidedoor, Season 10, Episode 21) [Podcast transcript]. https://www.si.edu/sites/default/files/sidedoor/the_lost_woolly_dog_-_s10_ep21.pdf
Stewart, H. (1984). Cedar: Tree of life to the Northwest Coast Indians. Douglas & McIntyre / University of Washington Press. [AMAZON LINK]
Suttles, W. (1987). Coast Salish essays. Talonbooks / University of Washington Press. [AMAZON LINK]
Tepper, L. H., George, J. (Chepximiya Siyam), & Joseph, W. (2017). Salish blankets: Robes of protection and transformation, symbols of wealth. University of Nebraska Press. [AMAZON LINK]